1st NW Quadrant\The Approval Matrix: Week of March 10, 2008
Toshiya Kadowaki, a chef, says he turned down a Michelin listing because foreigners are not qualified to rate Japanese food. (Ko Sasaki for The New York Times)
The Michelin guide recently ventured into Asia for the first time in its 108-year history to research and publish a Japanese-language guide to Tokyo restaurants ... and showered the city’s restaurants with more of its coveted stars  than those in New York  and Paris  combined.
Many prominent figures of the Tokyo food world, however, are saying to Michelin, in effect, thanks for all the attention (which we deserve), but you still do not know us or our cuisine.
“Japanese food was created here, and only Japanese know it,” Mr. Kadowaki said in an interview. “How can a bunch of foreigners show up and tell us what is good or bad?”
Food critics, magazines and even the governor of Tokyo have questioned the guide’s choice of restaurants and ratings. A handful of chefs proudly proclaimed that they had turned down chances to be listed. -- New York Times